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Thank you for interesting in our services. We are a non-profit group that run this website to share documents. We need your help to maintenance this website. Please help us to share our service with your friends.

Share Embed Donate. Available at better homebrew and winemaking retailers or order today by calling also available online! Order your copy today at www. All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or in whole without written permission is strictly prohibited. Printed in the United States of America. By no secret that homebrewers drink a lot of beer, and not all of it is homebrew. Given that homebrewers also enjoy many craft beers and imports , it's not surprising that a popular topic among us is clone brew recipes - homebrew recipes for commercial beers.

In this special issue of Brew Your Own, we present clone r ecipes. Most of these clones were formulated with input from the brewery. All older recipes have been updated to meet BYO's standardized assumptions adopted in and found on the facing page. In addition, many were updated to take into account new information - and a few for example, our Fat Tire clone were completely r evamped.

Among these recipes you'll find old standbys, new trendsetters and a few homebrewer favorites that are no longer brewed commercially for example, Red Hook Double Black Stout. But what do you do if you can't find a clone of your favorite beer? Read on and fmd out how to do it yourself. This can be a stand alone program - like ProMash, Beersmith or Strangebrew- an online calculator, like Chris Colby the Recipator at brewery.

If you can calculate original specific gravity OG and color in SRM from the amount of malts in the recipe, final specific gravity FG from the attenuation of the yeast, bittering in!

BUs from the amow1t of hops added and alcohol in ABV from the drop in specific gravity, you can easily generate a "first draft" of a clone recipe. The second, and most important, thing you 'll need to. To draw up a decent clone recipe, you'll need the above beer specifications plus information on both the ingredients in the beer and the procedures used to make it. For ingredients , you'll need to know the types and percentage of malts used, the types of hops used and when they are added, the kind of yeast and information on any other ingredients kettle adjuncts, spices, fruits, etc.

On the procedural side, you should find out the details of the mash program, boil times, fermentation temperatures and any unusual processes used. This is a lot of information, but as I'll show you - there are some shortcuts you can take. Where to get the information needed Information on a commercial beer can come from a variety of sources. First and foremost, you may be able to get much or all of the information straight from the brewer.

If your local brewpub has a porter you just love, stop by during the day sometime - when the brewer is most likely there - and ask if you can BYO. COM 1 talk to him. Some brewers are reluctant to give out any information about their beers, and others are bound by confidentiality agreements, but many others are happy to "talk shop. Recipes for similar beers can help you develop a clone recipe.

And finally, of course, you can use your senses to figure out some aspects of a beer. You can certainly see the color of a beer. Tasting your clone target and some other, similar beers of known bitterness and hop types can help you make decisions about how much and what hops to use.

Once you've gathered - or guessed atall the information you need, you're ready to draw up a draft recipe. In the cloning lab Once you have all the information assembled, one way to construct a clone is to take a trial and error method to entering the information into your brewing calculator.

I use this method when constructing clones for BYO. As an example of how to do this, I'll show you how I cloned a real world beer - Summit Winter Ale- using information found on their website and my recollections of tasting this beer. On my spreadsheet, I find that I would need 12 lbs. Extract brewers will use light malt extract as their base malt, but the rest of the process is the same for both extract and all-grain brewers. What if, however, your only indication of the size of the beer was the alcohol content?

Using only this piece of information, you can still estimate the OG of yonr beer to be cloned. The amount of alcohol in a beer is prin1arily determined by how much malt sugars the yeast "eat. In your recipe calculator, select the proper yeast type or type in a. Then fill in amounts of base malt until you reach the correct ABV. If you have no idea. This is about average for most ales. Next, if you have the percentages of the other malts, just multiply the total amount of grain by these percentages and fill them in.

If you don't have any information on the proportion of the various malts, the color of the beer can help you make a. Color and malt flavor If you don't know the percentage of other malts, start adding the other malts in reasonable amow1ts into your brewing calculator. You can use information on how similar beers are brewed as a basis for what a reasonable amount is. In the case of a beer with one base malt and one specialty malt both of known color rating , there is only one combination that will yield the right color and gravity for the beer.

If there are three or more malts, there are an infinite nurriber of solutions to the puzzle. Using trial and error, I found that 1. Looking at other sintilar recipes, especially recipes from my homebrew notebook, this seems reasonable. How did I decide to use crystal 75?

Well, from experience, I knew the amount of black patent malt that would give a Ilice amount of color, but only a tinge of flavor as I remember Summit Winter having.

From there, I found - by trial and error- that when I used crystal 75 , I got a. From experience, I was pretty sure that the hue of the beer would be similar to what I remember the beer having. In aclclition, the relatively small amount of crystal malts makes sense when you look at the FG the beer needs to reach to get the right alcohol content. Note that, as you acid other malts into your calculations, you will need to decrease the amount of base malt to keep the beer at the correct OG.

This can, in tnrn, change the color of your beer. With multiple malts, this can lead to a lot of ficlclling. However, after you've done this a few times, you'll get better at it. After adding the specialty malts, I needed to scale the pale malt amount back to 10 lbs. Once yonr original gravity and color match your initial estimates, take a look at the final gravity FG and alcohol content in ABV.

If you're lucky, they might be right on. If not, adjust the amount of attenuation so the FG is right. In our case, we don't have the final gravity, but we have the alcohol content. Sometimes you may enter all of your information into your brewing calculator and the results won't match up with the brewery's information.

For example, you may enter the amotmt and color ratings of the malts they use and end up with a. Likewise , the alcohol content they claim may not jibe with the drop in specific gravity the beer undergoes. From the standpoint of cloning, you need to decide how to deal with this discrepancy.

The best way, in my opinion, is to look over your brewing notebook and formulate the clone so it works on your system. For example, if the brewery's recipe yields a beer that you know will be too dark on yom system, decrease the amount of dark malts.

The way a beer is brewed affects how it turns out, so use every bit of knowledge of how beers tmn out on yom system when formulating your clone. Bitterness and hop character Once you have the malt information set, you can begin to calculate how much hops to use. As wort density affects hop utilization, you need to get at least the original gravity of yom beer set before you calculate hop additions.

If you don't know the level of bitterness in! BUs of your beer, you can do comparison tasting of different brews and get a fairly good handle on the level of bitterness in a beer. What can be more difficult is determining the hop types. If you're lucky, the brewer will have specified the amount of! BUs for each addition of hops.

If you don't have any information about the tinting of the additions, use information from similar beers as a guide. For the Summit Winter clone , I found I needed 4. Jittering hops boiled for 60 minutes combined with 3. I guessed that the Willamette hops would be the! Jittering hops and the Fuggles and Tettnanger together would be the flavor hops. Once the malt and hops have been decided, all that's left is the yeast, water and perhaps the miscellaneous ingredjents - the details of whkh you either have in yom possession or not.

Add those details to your recipe and voila - the flrst draft of yow- clone recipe. Assessing the clone Once you've got your clone recipe drawn up, you'll probably wonder how it tastes. The obvious solution is to brew it and flnd out.

However, if you've had to make several asswnptions along the way, you may be hesitant to do so, afraid that you will be wasting your time. As you draw up a clone , it's natural to think about aU the w1certainties. Once you're done, however, it's good to step back and also think of all you know you got right.

Then, examine the consequences for your being wrong. Let's use om presumptive Summit Winter Ale clone as an example.


BYO Special Issue - 150 Classic Clone Recipes - 2006

Those three letters can sell almost anything, market analysis tells us year after year. Over time, the IPA category has splintered further into a dozen sub-styles: Every color, every strength, every possible combination of yeast strains. Beyond hoppy, drinkers and brewers can seem to change their mind about what they want the style to be year after year. While this riffing on a common theme is far from new in beer, it can seem to affect IPAs far more than other styles. The common story that IPA was invented to survive the long ocean voyage is actually a bit of a distortion of the truth; hoppy pale ales existed before the style was defined, and independent of the India route. Little realized, too, is that historic English IPAs resembled American hop-bombs closer than their contemporary English cousins. But the powerful forces of taste and taxes changed much over time, and the English IPA of the mids emerged as a quite different beer from those of the mids.


150 Clone Recipes from BYO

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